New Black tank install

front toilet nut

rear toilet nut

screws holding toilet flange were rusted and had no face left.   I carefully cut around screws and used vice grip to remove screws.  was a pain. 

original tank valve mount.  I had used alot of rtv silicon a few years ago to seal the valve to the tank.

original valve on tank.  after I used rvt to seal it to tank, it did not leak on to ground, but the blade never sealed 100%

This is the drain/vent  from the shower, and bathroom. 

this is the drian/vent from the kitchen.

this is what is below the shower drain.

new tank, with holes cut as ordered.  I did not have them cut out the level sender.  I will not be reinstalling that, it never worked.

fitting installed for shower/bathroom drain, matching the old tank heighth

fitting for kitchen drain/sink, matching old drain.  I cut about 3/8" off of coupler.

used a hole saw to cut the white plastic pipe collars, so I could see what I was connecting.

shower/bathroom drain after I hole sawed out the plastic collar

kitchen drain/vent after I holesawed out the collar

this is the shower drain/bathroom drain.  there is no give in this part.  it originally just sealed to black tank with an o-ring located in original tank fitting.   I learned this after my install was complete.

another view.   I removed rear seat, and fresh water tank for access.  was really easy to remove, maybe 10 minutes.

view of kitchen sink drain/vent through access hole. 

that piece took a little pry bar.  made it workable, and did not take much to put it back together later.

view looking down in kitchen drain access.   glued fitting, and inserted.  there was enough flex in this pipe.

this one fit tight after I mounted tank up tight.  I used glue just on outside edge to seal.  but again, original fitting had an o-ring.  probably best to get a new oring, but you would have to be very careful to make sure that oring still was seated and was installed properly in the end.  this is all blind work, can't see what you are doing from bottum at all, and top is very limited visability.

used this to seal pipes to exterior.

hopefully eliminated another mouse entrance point.

had to make a flange tool to get flange tight enough.  Screws are a #14x 2" and I would recommend stainless steel.  they took a real hardware store to find.  box stores only had #12 screws.

tied it to my original macerator system.  I hope to replumb this at some point, and move macerator closer to crossmember, and hopefully get valve to open with original location on driver side. (generator is in way)

dump pipe fitting.  not sure the best way to get a valve close to tank.  will look into that later, this worked well.  the tank outlet was a little larger and took some coaxing to get that coupler on.  but it allowed the odd angles to work with each other.

new dometic 310 toilet installed.  price was right, but if money was not an option, I might try to find one that uses 4 bolts to floor rather then 2.  after caulking it to floor, it feels a little sturdier.  I also found I had to replace the waterline to get line on back of toilet.  original toilet the water line exited at 90 degrees.  this one the water exit is straight behind the pedal.    easily done with faucet premade waterlines,  after searching with no luck for a 90 degree fitting.  36" line was about $5.